Lake Toya, Hokkaido: the volcano, the ropeway and the fireworks

Lake Toya is a round lake in southwestern Hokkaido, and its shape tells its story. The Toyako tourist association's geopark page says it was born from a huge eruption about 110,000 years ago, and that water collected in the caldera, about 10 km in diameter, to form the present lake.^1,2 On a clear day the far shore is easy to make out across the water.

In the middle of the lake sit the Nakajima islands. The geopark page says the four islands that came out of the water are collectively called Nakajima, and that 11 volcanoes have been identified so far, including those under the lake.⁹ Volcanic activity in the area is not only a story from the past; the same page says Mt. Usu has recently erupted once every 20 to 30 years.¹⁰

The area sits inside Shikotsu-Toya National Park, which was designated a national park in July 1951.¹¹ The ropeway operator names the area a UNESCO Global Geopark.¹² Bring a camera, follow the signs and leave nothing behind.

The ropeway is the quickest way to a view of the crater and the lake together. The ride takes approximately 6 minutes one way, and cars run every 15 minutes at:00,:15,:30 and:45.³ The round trip costs 2,000 yen for an adult and 1,000 yen for an elementary school child.⁴

Time at the top depends on how far you walk. The operator says the ropeway plus the Lake Toya Observation Deck takes about 40 minutes, and adding the Usu Crater Basin Observation Deck takes about 60 minutes.¹⁴ Budget the shorter figure if your bus has a tight schedule and the longer one if you are on your own.

Hours change with the season. One band of the timetable runs from a first run up at 8:15 am to a last run down at 5:45 pm, while a shorter band runs from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm.¹³ Check the operator's page for the day you travel, because the ropeway can also close for weather or maintenance, and a closed day changes the whole plan.

Winter does not empty the lake. A snow play area opens at the Silo Observatory from late December to early March.²⁰ The park runs 10:00 to 15:00 subject to weather, and snow rafting takes about 10 minutes and costs 2,000 yen per adult.^21,22 The Toyako Onsen illumination tunnel, built with LED lights, is a winter-only spot, so there is something to see after the summer fireworks end.⁴⁴

Steam rises from the hot-spring town and the ridge turns white, so views that look flat in summer gain contrast. The ropeway may run reduced hours in the cold months, so check its calendar before you build a morning around it.

The cold asks for proper kit. Bring waterproof boots, a hat and gloves, and a bag that keeps your camera dry. Sidewalks near the lake can be icy. If you go by car, ask the rental firm about winter tires.

A coach day puts the lake into a loop with other sights. The Sapporo, Noboribetsu and Lake Toya day tour lists a 10-hour day with pickup and a guide in English and Japanese from $47, with the Silo Observation Deck, Mt. Usu-Shinzan and Showa-shinzan among its stops. The Silo Observatory is also the site of the winter snow play area.²⁰

Other listings reshuffle the same ground. One adds Lake Hill Farm in a one-day trip from $54, and another lists the Silo Observation Deck, the Wakasaimo Honpo main store and Mount Usu among its stops in a one-day trip from $70. The stops, the price and the guide languages differ from one to the next.

Choose by the stop that matters most to you. If it is the ropeway, check that the listing includes time at Mt. Usu and whether the fare is separate. If it is the shoreline and the fireworks, a coach day will not get you there, and you should plan a night at the lake instead.